Old Goa is a fascinating place. There are nine enormous churches with enormous elaborate carvings on the altars all in a tiny space of land. Some of them are beautiful, but the Basilica of Bom Jesus taints a bit of the romance by having the mortal remains of St Francis Xavier displayed in a huge silver and glass coffin! He died in the 1550s and his servant covered him in quicklime to avoid his grave being desecrated. It didn't work, and they sent bits of him all over the world. So the head is probably all that's left in that coffin!

Last night we had dinner in a restaurant that had a club in the basement. Last years dance music was blasting up through the floor and we decided we really need to avoid that sort of thing, because it'll devalue our experience. I'm enjoying being away from English culture, away from the pubs, clubs and alcohol. I'm sure six months of abstention¹ will do me good! I want to carry on being 'cultural, but here it's difficult as this is Europe, not India. I don't think we'll need to go to Portugal after here. I'm wearing trousers today because I felt out of place in a dhoti and kurta!

...

I think we're nearly on the verge of another tiff. Things have settled into a sort of hierarchy where I always lead, being the Organiser. Out of the hotel room, onto the bus, round unknown streets etc. For a change, I waited for C. to open the door and go out. He waited for me, because I usually go first and thought I wasn't ready. Small things, but he really took offence when I said he doesn't have to wait for me all the time. Seems insignificant, but microcosm to macrocosm...

I hate taking things for granted - even small things. Routines, rituals... I need variety. I think that's what confused C. Why the sudden change? He thinks it's because I'm being awkward and picky. When I go home all those things that I used to take for granted will be unusual. Toilet paper! Peanut butter! Pavements! But the common things here will be absent. Ceiling fans, fruit sellers, auto-rickshaws, heat...

...

Goa is quite different, girls wear jeans here. We're finding ourselves shocked at things that should be 'normal' for us. Claudia Schiffer on the front cover of Cosmo, bars, lovers. Even the men and women are more free about talking to each other.

Of course some things about India still disgust us though. Men defecating on the beach! In full view of the promenade they go and squat, wash themselves in the sea then carry on with their lives! Presumably the sea is supposed to wash it away, but it's foul. It's almost a shame the Romans didn't come her adn give them sewers, even Bangalore suffers. Why haven't they thought of that yet?

We're off to Pune tomorrow, I hope the address Uncle Frank gave us works this time.